Stained Glass Maker's Quick Reference

I know there are a lot of how-to do stained glass out there. I wanted to give those that have taken a class and need a reminder or maybe it's been a long time and you need a refresh list. This is a quick bullet guide to help keep you on track.

• Have two copies of pattern. Cut pattern pieces out of one of the patterns.
• Trace pattern on glass and score and cut the piece. Repeat as many times as needed to cut all pieces out.
• Remember you only need 10 to 15lbs. of pressure to score the glass. You must go from one edge of the glass to the other. You can not stop in the middle of the glass. Cut your hard angles first then go to the other sides.
• After cutting out all the pieces of glass use the grinder to smooth and fit your pieces together.
• Foil all pieces of glass.
• After foiling, place all pieces on the pattern and fit together as tight as possible.
• Tack the pieces in place so they don’t move when you start to solder.
• Flux pieces at the joints.
• Tack solder the front side of the panel.
• Remove tacks and flux and flat solder the back side of the panel.
• Turn panel back to the front and “bead” solder.
• Add metal frame or filigree.
• After soldering, let cool enough to touch, and then wash with dish soap and natural bristle brush to remove any contaminants.
• Dry thoroughly with a paper towel.
• Add patina and wash panel again with dish soap.
• Add stain remover if needed.
• Finally, add finishing compound to panel, let dry and buff off.

Why 0000 steel wool is my best friend for stained glass art.

A grade of steel wool is called an “aught” so when you go to a hardware store to find it you will need to ask for 4 aught steel wool. This stuff is a must tool in your stained glass supply collection. Here are a few reasons to always have some on hand.

·         It can take off oxidation (white scum) off of the lead or solder without scratching the glass.

·         It’s perfect for repair work or clean-up jobs. Scrub the solder joints and damaged area (even the glass) with it to get “time” off of an old window. It’s good for cleaning off smoke damage on the stained glass panel.

·         If you don’t like your patina choice or you have old patina you need to take off you can scrub it off with steel wool and it still won’t hurt the glass.

·         It can take off old paint, marker or sticker residue. Simply rub it over the marked area and it will be cleaned. Be careful if you have a repair or a cleaning job has painted faces etc. If it’s painted and fired you will not be able to scrub it off (because it’s actually a thin layer of glass fused to the pieces) but if it is some other paint it can be taken off with steel wool. Make sure that you actually want to take it off. I suggest to test a corner of the painted area that needs to be fixed or cleaned. Or avoid it by putting masking tape over the painted area that you want to protect.

After using the steel wool to scrub away all that you need to do, make sure to clean it all off (simple soap and water) before you patina or you will have instant rust that will create a brown tint to your patina (unless you like that look).

I want my pattern marks to stay where I put them!

Marker stays well on glass if you want to wait for it to dry. The problem is, who wants to wait for marker to dry. Do we wait hours, days for each mark? It’s just not practical. So there are a few techniques that I’ve come up with to keep us moving forward with cutting and grinding.

I’ve tried all kinds of markers over the years and I found a silver sharpie has much better staying power. I’m not sure what they use that’s so different from the black but it stays so well when it dries sometimes I have to use 0000 steel wool to get it off.

I have also used gold paint pen. It has good staying power but only when you let it dry. Nice thing is it dries quickly.

To help these markers and paint pens stay even better, smear petroleum jelly over the marks to keep it from coming off too quickly while grinding or saw cutting. Make sure to apply a thin layer of the jelly. Excess jelly can get in the inner workings of your saw and bind it up or capture additional grinder grit where you don’t want it.